|
"John
Dunne is one of the strongest and
most notorious climbers on the current climbing scene. He is infamous
for pushing climbing grades into new realms of difficulty, including
classic routes which are seldom repeated because of their potentially
fatal nature. His sometimes controversial climbing career has seen
him dominating the headlines on many occaisions making him one of
the most outstanding and committed all round climbers in the world."
|
|
|
| |
|
|
Name
|
John
David Dunne |
|
Born
|
Bradford
5th September 1968. |
|
Age
|
36. |
|
Job
|
Professional
Climber |
|
|
Starting
climbing at Age 11
|
|
Age
14
:
Edge Lane E5,5c on sight solo Millstone Edge
|
| |
Age
16
: Indecent
Exposure E6,6b,6a Ravens Tor
Lord of the Flies E6,6a Cromlech |
|
|
|
Age
17
:
John starts to establish an impressive list of new unclimbed
lines :
The Maximum E6,6c Malham
Snap Decision E7,6b Ilkley
Countdown to Disaster E8,6b Ilkley
|
| |
| Age
18
:
Magnetic Fields FA 8b Britain's first 8b climb Cave Route left
7c+ Hardest British onsight climbed |
|
|
|
Age
19 :
A series of World Class traditional and Sport Climbs
New Statesman FA E8, 7a Ilkley
Predator FA 8b Malham
Cry Freedom second accent 8b+ Malham
|
| |
| Age
21
:
Established Britain's first E10, Partheon Shot E10, 7a Burbage. |
|
|
|
Age
22 :
1990
:John
stopped climbing and underwent a series of complicated shoulder
operations due to over training and tendon damage.
|
| |
| Age
: 25 :
1993
:
Climbed extensively in the Alps both Summer and Winter. |
|
|
|
Age
26 :
1994
:
Returned to climbing with a five month road trip around Europe
taking in some of the most famous areas Chamonix, Dolomites,
Verdon, Digital Crack, 8a+, Midi Frankenjura, Switzerland
and Spain, M Blanc.
Established Spain's hardest sport climb Hari Kiri 8C+ El Chorro.
|
| |
Age
27 :
1995
:
Returned to World Class form.
Established Britain's first 9a. Total Eclipse 9a Malham
American Direct Dru French Alps
Divided Years E10,7a Mourne Mountains |
|
|
|
Age
28 : 1996
:
Controversially removed bolts from Bosherston Head and climbed
the line without them.
The Big Issue E9,6c Pembroke.
An ethical standpoint and important event in climbing history.
|
| |
| Age
29 : 1997
: Made
significant advances on gritstone. Savage Earth E9,7A Widdop.
Loaded, E8 7a, unrepeated. |
|
|
|
Age
30 : 1998
: Widdop
Wall E9, 7a Widdop Carmen Piccaso E9, 6c Gorple Fast Forward
E7, 6c Ilkley (hailed a modern classic).
|
| |
|
Age
31 : 1999
:
In
April visited California and Nevada climbing at Joshua
Tree, Yosemite, Bishop Red Rocks and Zion. Made the
2nd ascent of Impact Day, E8 6c on Pavey Ark, Langdale.Spent
August and September attempting new line on Great Gable.
|
| |
Age
32 :
2000 :
Spent
most of Winter and Spring injured. Made 1st ascent of
Breathless E10 7a on Great Gables Tophet Wall in the Lake
District. This is probably the hardest traditional route
in the world (see gallery).
On his second trip to the states he climbed at the Needles
and Tuolumne Meadows were he climbed many classic lines.
At Tuolumne he made an early British ascent of the serious
Bachar/Yerian route on the Medliocott Dome.
In Yosemite he made an impressive one day ascent of the
Regular Route on Half Dome. A visit to Spain in November
resulted in the onsighting of several 8as on Desplomlandia
near El Chorro. Spent Christmas in the Costa Brava onsighting
a multi pitch E6 on the Penon. |
|
|
|
Age
33 :
2001
:
On returning from a snowboarding trip to Mammoth he
made 1st ascent of Rewind, Font 7b, at Thrusscross a
long standing problem. In March he represented the BMC
on an exchange meet to China. Spent two weeks teaching,
training and climbing in new areas with Steve Mclure,
Lindsay Griffin and Nick Williams. At present he his
working on a new route in the North West of Scotland.
June
Made 1st ascent of Great Escape on Arran.
|
| |
| Age
33 :
2002
:Spent January in Joshua Tree doing Highball problems
such as So High, Planet X, White Rasterferian and working
on a project in Wonderland of Rocks. Made 4th ascent of
Jerry moffats Inertia Reel Traverse V12 font
8a+ and an ascent of Ben Moons Mushin V10. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
