John Dunne has been one of the strongest climbers on the scene in the past 20 years. He is infamous for having pushed climbing grades into new realms of difficulty, including classic routes which are seldom repeated because of their potentially fatal nature. One of the most outstanding and committed all-round climbers in the world.
Age 10: John starts climbing
Age 14: Edge Lane E5,5c on sight solo Millstone Edge
Age 16: Indecent Exposure E6,6b,6a Ravens Tor, Lord of the Flies E6,6a Cromlech
Age 17: Establishes an impressive list of new unclimbed lines: The Maximum E6,6c Malham, Snap Decision E7,6b Ilkley, Countdown to Disaster E8,6b Ilkley
Age 18: Magnetic Fields FA 8b Britain’s first 8b climb, Cave Route left 7c+ Hardest British onsight climbed
Age 19: A series of World Class traditional and Sport Climbs, New Statesman FA E8, 7a Ilkley, Predator FA 8b Malham, Cry Freedom second accent 8b+ Malham
Age 21: Established Britain’s first E10, Partheon Shot E10, 7a Burbage.
1990: Underwent a series of complicated shoulder operations due to over training and tendon damage.
1993: Climbed extensively in the Alps both Summer and Winter.
1994: Returned to climbing with a five month road trip around Europe taking in some of the most famous areas Chamonix, Dolomites, Verdon, Digital Crack, 8a+, Midi Frankenjura, Switzerland and Spain, M Blanc. Established Spain’s hardest sport climb Hari Kiri 8C+ El Chorro.
1995: Returned to World Class form. Established Britain’s first 9a. Total Eclipse 9a Malham. American Direct Dru French Alps, Divided Years E10,7a Mourne Mountains
1996: Controversially removed bolts from Bosherston Head and climbed the line without them. The Big Issue E9,6c Pembroke. An ethical standpoint and important event in climbing history.
1997: Made significant advances on gritstone. Savage Earth E9,7A Widdop. Loaded, E8 7a, unrepeated.
1998: Widdop Wall E9, 7a Widdop, Carmen Piccaso E9, 6c Gorple, Fast Forward E7, 6c Ilkley (hailed a modern classic).
1999: In April I visited California and Nevada climbing at Joshua Tree, Yosemite, Bishop Red Rocks and Zion. Made the 2nd ascent of Impact Day, E8 6c on Pavey Ark, Langdale. Spent August and September attempting new line on Great Gable.
2000: Made 1st ascent of Breathless E10 7a on Great Gables Tophet Wall in the Lake District. This was probably the hardest traditional route in the world at that time. On his second trip to the states he climbed at the Needles and Tuolumne Meadows where he climbed many classic lines. At Tuolumne he made an early British ascent of the serious Bachar/Yerian route on the Medliocott Dome.
2001: In March he represented the BMC on an exchange meet to China. Spent two weeks teaching, training and climbing in new areas with Steve Mclure, Lindsay Griffin and Nick Williams. Made 1st ascent of Great Escape on Arran a three pitch traditional route.
2002: Spent January in Joshua Tree doing highball problems such as So High, Planet X and working on a new route in the Wonderland of rocks. Made the 4th ascent of Jerry Moffat’s Inertia Reel traverse at the Roaches V12 font 8a+
February 2005: John opens the hugely successful Manchester Climbing Centre
John still continues to climb at a high standard and climbs regularly on the crags of Britain and Europe.